martedì 8 luglio 2008

Viaggio in Madagascar e Nosy Iranja !



Viaggio in Madagascar…!

Siamo arrivati all’aeroporto di Antananarivo, capitale del Madagascar. Città particolare situata su dei colli, dove c’è la parte bassa della città, la parte intermedia e la parte alta, si trova su altopiano di circa 1400 metri sul livello del mare. Città strana caotica piena di smog…!! Il viaggio è cominciato con la visita delle colline sacre, la collina che abbiamo visitato la chiamano la collina Blu, e per loro il blu è un colore sacro. Li abbiamo raggiunto la piccola cittadina di Hamboimanga e abbiamo visitato la reggia del Re Andrianampoinimerina….! Struttura tipica coloniale !
Il viaggio è proseguito con un volo interno verso la città di Taolagnaro, e da li abbiamo preso una barca a motore che ci ha traghettati attraverso una bellissima laguna, piena di vegetazione endemica. Le piante principali sono: Le orecchie di elefante: foglie grandi verdi come le orecchie di elefante. Nel tragitto abbiamo visto alcuni coccodrilli che passavano vicino la nostra imbarcazione. Si arriva alla penisola di Lokaro , li siamo entrati in un villaggio di pescatori. E’ un tipico villaggio di capanne, dove i poveri abitanti non hanno ne acqua ne luce. Per prendere l’acqua le donne camminano anche 20 km al giorno con un secchio sulla testa e in questo villaggio vivono circa 1800 persone il 70% delle quali sono bambini. Questi piccoli bimbi ci sono corsi incontro dicendo: Bon Bon Vazaha…Vazaha è l’uomo bianco il visitatore…chiedevano delle caramelle che io avevo comprato apposta per loro…tutti in fila con le manine aperte aspettavano la loro caramella e uno dopo l’altro ringraziavano e sorridevano…bellissima l’immagine che ho ancora davanti agli occhi…quei bellissimi bambini poveri si ma non miseri; nei loro occhi si vedeva la serenità della loro vita pur povera ma sicuramente ricca di gioia, perché a loro basta avere una capanna del cibo, che non gli manca, e sono felici…bellissimi bambini.. resteranno sempre nel nostro cuore !
Passato il villaggio ci siamo incamminati lungo un percorso impervio sotto il sole, desolato bellissimo, percorso dove abbiamo visto tante varietà di piante: banani, palme, ginestre, Ravinala:la tipica pianta del Madagascar, è una pianta a forma di ventaglio, loro la chiamano la pianta del viaggiatore. Abbiamo visto orchidee, piante carnivore. Il percorso saliva piano piano, fino ad un’altura da dove abbiamo assistito ad uno scenario mozzafiato, davanti ai nostri occhi due baie di sabbia bianchissima incontaminate, le abbiamo raggiunte e fotografate, poi abbiamo ripreso il cammino che ci ha portati ad un’altra altura dove all’improvviso uno spettacolo incredibile, davanti a noi Lokaro luogo incantato, laggiù un piccolo villaggio immerso nella foresta e più in la il mare con una splendida baia azzurra con sabbia bianca e nera con qualche tratto di sabbia rossa, uno scenario irreale.
Il giorno seguente siamo partiti per la riserva di Berenty che abbiamo raggiunto a bordo di una Jeep, il percorso molto accidentato, basti pensare che per fare 80 km ci abbiamo messo 3 ore…lungo il percorso tanti villaggi di capanne con bambini e donne rigorosamente scalzi, si loro non hanno le scarpe, e non hanno mezzi di trasporto quindi per andare da un villaggio all’altro vanno a piedi, percorrono anche 30 km ogni giorno per andare da un mercato all’altro, per vendere le loro poche cose, del tipo: un tacchino, una gallina, delle patate, del carbone, del riso…!
Siamo arrivati a Berenty e li ci attendevano i primi animali del Madagascar: i lemuri. Subito abbiamo visto questi lemuri Catta: sono quelli con la coda a righe, come Timon del re leone.
Nel pomeriggio siamo entrati nella riserva dove abbiamo visto altri lemuri: il Catta, Sifaka, e le volpi volanti: pipistrelli giganti. Bellissimi quegli animali, il Sifaka è splendido perché per camminare salta di traverso e sembra che faccia una danza…bellissimo.
Il giorno dopo siamo partiti con un altro volo interno per Toliary, città che poi ci avrebbe portato alla volta del parco Isalo. Arrivati alla città ci siamo trasferiti verso il parco Isalo. Esso è caratterizzato da alternarsi di pianure erbose e creste di arenaria dalle forme bizzarre. E’ un luogo affascinante e pieno di misteri dove vedi paesaggi di straordinaria bellezza, come la formazione rocciosa del canion, immenso e spettacolare.Poi abbiamo raggiunto una cavità del canion dove li la vegetazione è incredibile, piante tropicali, sabbia bianca, e un fiume con acqua fresca che attraversa il canion, un luogo magico. Li abbiamo visto i lemuri Catta, Verraux Sifaka con un cucciolino in braccio…!!!
Il giorno seguente siamo partiti per visitare la foresta d’Anja dove abbiamo visto i lemuri Catta, poi abbiamo proseguito per Ambalavao, importante centro per la fabbricazione della carta artigianale “antaimoro”. In questo paese io ho assaggiato a pranzo le Cavallette fritte, che non erano cattive: sanno di pesce fritto…! Dopo il pranzo siamo andati alla città di Fianarantsoa, piccola località dove hanno anche una bella cattedrale cristiana.
Il giorno seguente siamo partiti per Fianarantsoa, da dove abbiamo preso una strada accidentata che ci ha portati al parco di Ranomafana. Questo parco è su un’altopiano di circa 1200 metri sul livello del mare, qui è stata una sorpresa, siamo entrati in una foresta pluviale, dove appunto pioveva. Questa foresta è uno spettacolo della natura, ci sono un’infinità di piante verdissime immense, torrenti da dove sgorgano acque trasparenti e ruscelli incantati, sembrava di vivere in una fiaba. Li c’erano anche le sanguisughe e diversi ragni giganti, non abbiamo visto molti animali perché con la pioggia i lemuri si rintanano, non amano l’acqua.
Il giorno dopo siamo partiti per la cittadina di Ambositra dove abbiamo fatto acquisti artigianali locali, abbiamo proseguito per Antsirabe dove abbiamo dormito per poi l’indomani ripartire per Antananarivo.
Il viaggio poi è continuato il giorno dopo con un volo per Nosy Be grande isola del Madagascar, dove siamo solo stati un giorno appunto per dormire e ripartire il giorno seguente, per l’isola di Nosy Iranja…..!
Al mattino abbaimo preso una veloce imbarcazione che ci ha portati dritti all’isola, l’abbiamo intravista da lontano dopo circa 1 ora e 15 minuti di navigazione.
Nosy Iranja è un’ isola incontaminata che si trova al largo dalle coste del Mozambico si affaccia sull’oceano Indiano. Arrivati ho aperto le braccia e mi sono detta: “ Questo è il paradiso terrestre”.
E’ un’isola che si affaccia su di uno scenario naturale di impareggiabile bellezza, è un luogo unico e sensazionale. Nosy Iranja è composta da due meravigliose isole, Nosy Iranja Be e Nosy Iranja Kely: in quest’ultima appunto alloggiavamo noi. Le due isole sono collegate da un candido banco di sabbia bianchissima percorribile con la bassa marea. In questa piccola isola Nosy Kely ogni anno le tartarughe depongono le uova.
Abbiamo assistito alla deposizione delle uova in una notte stellata, la spiaggia dove vengono le tartarughe è un luogo protetto dal WWF. Abbiamo visto una tartaruga immensa verde tipica dell’Oceano Indiano,e abbiamo assistito anche all’entrata in acqua della tartaruga che dopo aver seppellito le uova se ne ritorna al mare.
Il giorno dopo nel pomeriggio il naturalista WWF ci ha chiamati per assistere alla nascita delle tartarughine che erano state deposte nel mese di Aprile. E' stato un momento indimenticabile, come vivere in un documentario dal vivo, quelle immagini delle piccole tartarughe che raggiungono il mare è stato davvero emozionante.
L’Isola di Nosy Iranja è stata catalogata come la quarta isola più bella del mondo, e ci credo perché è un vero paradiso terrestre.
Questo viaggio ci ha dato tanto, ci ha fatto vedere cose, animali, persone davvero incredibili e affascinanti, ma soprattutto ci ha insegnato che la vita, la natura, gli animali, il mare sono talmente preziosi che non basta solo il rispetto, ma ci vuole soprattutto Amore, e questo luogo ne è pieno.
Rimarrà uno dei viaggi più emozionanti della nostra Vita di viaggiatori.
Presto vi mostreremo le bellissime foto….!!!
Franca e Stefano.

145 commenti:

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Deve essere stata veramente un'esperienza stupenda. Ogni viaggio ti apre la mente: scopri cose inpensabili, entri in contatto con realtà lontane dal nostro quotidiano che, in qualche modo, ti obbligano a rivedere le tue priorità e i punti di vista.
Infine scopri meglio te stesso e le persone che ti stanno vicino, così come loro scoprono meglio te.
Partire non è mai fuggire, ma ritrovarsi.

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Belle parole Casper, sono parole vere, e in qualche modo rispecchiano ciò che ho visto.
Al rientro in Italia mi sono accorta di quanto noi non siamo felici, e di quanto noi non apprezziamo ciò che abbiamo.
E' viaggiando che capisci l'importanza della vita...!!!
Grazie Casper !

Chaim Waibel ha detto...

Anch'io sono stato a Nosy Iranja, però nel 1998 attraverso un viaggio famiglia del WWF. È un'isola davvero magnifica, tanto che per me è davvero lo stereotipo del paradiso tropicale. Tuttavia vorrei ricordare un episodio che interessa questa isola e che nessuna guida turistica vi racconterà. Nel 1998 il villaggio turistico non era ancora operativo, anzi, non c'era proprio, ma già allora le guide del posto ci raccontavano che presto sarebbe stato edificato. Siamo stati fortunati a visitare quest'isola quando ancora non c'era nulla perché la natura era davvero incontaminata, il mare sul serio pulito, e la barriera corallina era ancora intatta. Con i primi proprietari dell'isola allora disabitata (nell'altra c'era un piccolo villaggio di pescatori su palafitte) cominciarono i primi guai per l'isola. Ad acquistarla e a farci il primo villaggio turistico furono degli indiani che, nel pieno disprezzo della natura, permettevano l'uso sconsiderato di acqua-scooter, barche, motori, escursioni in massa di snorkeling riuscendo a distruggere una parte di fauna e flora nel giro di 7 anni. Quindi il villaggio venne chiuso per corruzione e disastro all'ambiente. Scrivo ciò con un groppo alla gola, perché se penso a quello che era mi viene rabbia per noi Occidentali che andiamo in posti del genere e li colonizziamo a modo nostro con strumenti di distruzione di massa (anche il solo movimento maldestro di 40 pinne provoca danni alla barriera corallina). Detto ciò spero che con la nuova gestione le cose siano cambiate e l'obiettivo sia quello di rispettare l'ambiente più che di render felice il turista.

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Ciao! Stiamo organizzando il nostro viaggio di nozze in Madagascar e ci piacerebbe fare un tour simile al vostro. Ti sei rivolta ad un tour operator o hai organizzato da sola? Potresti darmi qualche indicazione? Se ti va puoi scrivermi a "bloggoloso CHIOCCIOLA sarachan PUNTO it".
Grazie!

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